Veal is the most delicate of meats, and therefore the choice of expert chefs who like to take advantage of the ways in which a variety of sauces can enhance its subtle flavor. Virtually no European cuisine is without a classic recipe for veal, so we asked six of Dallas’ finest chefs to give us their favorites.
Good veal is white, with no “silver skin” (the fine cartilage that makes a cut tough). The most popular cuts are medallions and cutlets (both boneless) and chops (with the bone). When you’re buying medallions or cutlets, ask for the inside round; chops are best taken from the loin. Veal roasts are taken from the loin or the leg. A skillful butcher, like one at Kuby’s, which sells between 60 and 100 pounds of veal a week, can help you pick the cut that’s best for your recipe. Don’t be surprised at the price, however: The going rate for inside round at Kuby’s is $8.99 a pound; for the loin it’s $6.19.
Tenderize medallions and cutlets by soaking them up to six hours in milk, then pounding them with a mallet. Veal chops may be soaked in milk, too, but pounding them is another question, since they contain a bone. Veal loin roasts are usually tenderized by larding them, as Jean Claude Prevot does in the recipe below for veal tournedos with green peppercorns. Don’t use a meat thermometer to test veal, since releasing the juices in the roast negates the tenderizing process. You can test for doneness by touch: The meat should feel firm to a good squeeze. Veal roasts tend to shrink at least an inch in cooking.
If your entree turns out to be under-cooked, don’t hesitate to serve your guests another glass of wine and return to the kitchen for a little more cooking. If you use any of the recipes below, your guests will appreciate your efforts and forgive your eagerness to serve them.
Heinz Prast of The Chimney in Willow Creek Center chose Lemon Veal as his specialty of specialties. It’s simple to prepare and brings out the veal’s subtle flavor.
Lemon Veal
(2 Servings)
Six 1 1/2-oz. veal cutlets, 3/8″ thick and pounded to 1/4″
2 oz. clarified butter or butter flavored shortening
salt and pepper to taste
1 juicy lemon
rice or egg noodles, cooked
Salt and pepper veal on one side only. Heat butter in a 10″ skillet till bubbling and place the veal in the skillet. Sauté for 1 to 1 1/2 minutes over high heat and turn. Meanwhile, squeeze the lemon quickly over the cutlets, place 3 pieces veal on each plate next to rice or egg noodles, and spoon the lemon-butter over all. Serve immediately.
Jean Claude Prevot is both owner and chef of the restaurant on Cedar Springs called Jean Claude. His veal tournedos with green peppercorns begins with a 2 to 2 1/2 lb. loin. He suggests that you askyour butcher to bone and roll a rack ofveal for this entree. It should serve sixpeople easily.
Veal Tournedos with Green Peppercorns
2 to 2 1/2 lb. veal roast
1 can green peppercorns
12-14 strips of bacon
To prepare the roast, spread a thin layer of green peppercorns along the length of the veal roast and lay 2-3 strips of quality bacon atop the peppercorns. Turn the veal and continue with the peppercorns and bacon until the entire roast has been encased. Tie.string across the grain. This, of course, holds the bacon which tenderizes the veal as it cooks. Roast at 375° for approximately 35 minutes. Jean Claude suggests that after the 35 minutes, you check the roast for firmness and shrinkage of about an inch. Slice and serve.
Eduardo Pria is chef at Javier’s, a delightful restaurant with several unusual gourmet dishes from the heart of Mexico. His Veal Marvin combines Parmesan cheese (for breading the veal) with a rich cream sauce; delicious served with fresh corn and zucchini.
Veal Marvin
(4 servings)
Step 1:
Four 3-oz. veal cutlets, pounded to 1/4″ salt & pepper
1. egg
2. oz. Parmesan cheese
2 Tbs. butter
Season both sides meat with salt and pepper. Bread meat by dipping first in beaten egg, then in the Parmesan cheese. Melt butter and saute veal for 3-4 minues each side. Remove to warm platter.
Step 2:
1/4 lb. butter
1/4 lb. flour
2 1/2 oz. fresh mushrooms, diced
2 c. milk
1/2 oz. beef stock
2 1/2 oz. Parmesan cheese
dash nutmeg
dash salt & pepper
2 egg yolks, beaten
1 1/2 oz. sour cream
Melt butter in medium size sauce pan and add flour. Blend and cook over medium heat for 1/2 minute, stirring constantly. Allow to cool. Saute mushrooms in a separate pan in a small amount of butter for 3 minutes and add to butter / flour mixture. Bring milk to boil in another pan and add mushroom / butter / flour mixture. Allow to boil for 3 minutes, stirring constantly. Add beef stock, Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, salt and pepper, egg yolks, and sour cream. Blend well until heated and sauce thickens to an even consistency. Pour sauce over breaded veal cutlet and serve immediately.
Chef Gaetano Machi, of II Sorrento, has 45 years of experience as a chef. He suggested a rich veal dish, Zingara, which includes a delicious Spanish sauce as a base and heartily serves 2 people.
Zingara
(2 servings)
Step 1:Spanish sauce
3/4 lb. beef bones
1 stalk celery
1 carrot
1 onion
1 tsp. fresh parsley
1 clove garlic
1/4 c. cooking oil
Place bones, vegetables, and seasonings in large oven-proof pot. Pour oil over bones and place in preheated 400° oven. Cook until the bones are scorched. Remove from oven, cover bones with water and return to oven for 2 1/2 hours. Then place on stove over low heat for an additional 2 hours. Remove bones and strain liquid. Set liquid aside.
Step 2:
1/2 c. butter
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 tsp. thyme
1/4 c. flour
Melt butter in large pot and add chopped vegetables and thyme. Sauté mixture over low heat until vegetables soften. Add flour to mixture and stir for 5 minutes. Add stock from Step 1 to flour mixture and simmer over low heat for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. Skim fat from top. Strain mixture. Cover and refrigerate or freeze. Makes approximately 4 c. of an excellent base for meat sauces.
Step 3:
3 oz. butter
flour
6 pieces sliced veal (approx. 4 oz. each), pounded to 1/16″
4 slices prosciutto, sliced lengthwise
4 slices cooked tongue, sliced lengthwise
5-6 large mushrooms or 12-13 small mushrooms, sliced
pinch salt & pepper
1 tsp. chopped parsley
1/2 c. Burgundy wine
1 c. Spanish sauce (from steps 1 and 2)
1/2 c. tomato sauce
1/2 c. broth, either chicken or beef
Melt butter in 10-12″ skillet until bubbling. Dust veal with flour and shake off excess. Place veal in hot butter and saute until the edges on the top side have browned, about 3-4 minutes. Turn veal and continue to cook for 3-4 minutes. Cover with tongue, prosciutto, and mushrooms; stir so that butter covers all. Add salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Cook mixture over medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Pour off excess butter and add Burgundy. Let simmer for 2-3 minutes. Add Spanish sauce, tomato sauce and broth as needed for texture. Let cook another 10 minutes until sauce thickens.
La Polonaise’s chef, Daniel Roger, is young – 26 years old – but he’s been cooking for 13 years. His Medallions de Veau aux deux Champignons uses the French variety of mushroom, the chanterelle.
Medallions de
Veau aux deux Champignons
(2 servings)
Two 4-oz. veal medallions, pounded to 1/4″
flour
butter
3-4 fresh mushrooms, sliced
3-4 French chanterelles (available canned at Marty’s or Simon David), sliced
1/2 c. heavy cream
1/4 c. thick beef stock
1/4 c. brandy
1/4 c. sherry
1 tsp. shallots, finely chopped
Salt and pepper veal medallions on both sides, dredge well in flour, and shake off excess. Heat butter in wide skillet until bubbling. Place medallions in butter and sauté for 3-4 minutes on each side. The color should be an even deep brown with slightly crisp edges. Remove to a heated platter. Pour off half the butter from skillet and saute fresh mushrooms, then the chanterelles, until heated. Add cream, beef stock, brandy, sherry, and shallots, blending well over high heat for 3-4 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste. Remove from heat, add a final tsp. of butter and blend. Pour sauce over veal medallions and serve immediately.
The Pyramid Room’s chef Hubert is French, but his Veal Holstein comes from Austria. This unusual entree would be an excellent choice for Sunday brunch.
Veal Holstein
(individual serving)
One 5-oz. veal cutlet, pounded to 1/4″ flour
1 egg
1 tsp. water
1 tsp. oil
bread crumbs
1/4 c. butter
1 egg
4 anchovies
watercress
2 lemon slices, peeled
chopped parsley
1/4 c. veal or beef base
Dip egg in flour, shake excess and dip inmixture of egg, water, and oil. Dip in breadcrumbs. Heat butter in large skillet until bubbling. Saute breaded cutlet in butter for 3-4minutes, or until it turns a sizzling goldenbrown. Turn and cook another 3-4 minutes.Remove cutlet, drain on paper towel, and placeon warmed platter. In remaining butter, fryegg sunny-side up, remove and drain. Placeegg atop the veal cutlet. Place anchovies in arectangular pattern across the egg. Roll peeledlemon slices in chopped parsley and place nextto cutlet. Place watercress next to cutlet asgarnish. Pour stock around the veal. Serve-immediately.
